Dim Sum

Chinatown Brasserie is 21st century chinoiserie in full force, an upscale interpretation of a stereotype wrapped up with the conceit of a swanky New York brasserie. The place is big, theatrical, and oriental. Such a thematic approach immediately makes the restaurant suspect, like other uber-trendy Asian-monoliths, serving up stylish but ultimately poseur variants of familiar dishes. Especially since dim sum bespeaks a certain modesty, in size and concept.

"Are you sure you want to eat here?" he asked.



Still, if Chef Ng did not exactly prove my suspicions incorrect, he did challenge my automatic distrust of non-regulation dim sum environments. This dish, Crispy Taro Root Shimp, was quite good, if the presentation is a bit precious. The buns were only serviceable and the soup dumplings were a cold leaky disaster of congealed crab and pork bits.

Although dim sum is usually an accompaniment of tea service, it is most appropriate to have drinks at a brasserie. The restaurant offers a fruity range of specialty cocktails, Lychee Martini, Ginger Mojito, and the Singapore Sling. The ginger essence in the Arancia Margarita made it a refreshing choice, if a little too sweet—perfect for sidewalk seating on the first warm weekend in April. The menu also offers a wide range of international wines and bottled beer.

The prices of the dim sum range from $6 to $20 at dinner, which is astronomical by Chinatown standards. One would expect the execution of even the classic to be impeccable. But the uneven level of quality means that the diner pays a premium for fancy plating and theatrical décor, making the overall experience a poor value.